This article was written by the participants of the 'Regional Writing Camp' held in Takayanagi-cho, Kashiwazaki City from 10-12 March in collaboration with Niigata Ina College, a rural I-turn study abroad programme.

Today, I think it's been a while since I've had boiled flounder. But it's hard to throw away pork cutlet after all. If that happens, I think it would be good if I combine it with boiled radish, greens and nori (seaweed) to give it a healthier feel. I'll also add an omelette.

Lined up in front of you, you could eat it anywhere, but not in a restaurant. It's not unusual, but it's safe. It's not fancy, it's not a feast, but it's simple and you can only eat it if you make it yourself or your mother makes it for you. Yes, this is truly home cooking. Many people would be happy if there was a shop in their neighbourhood where they could easily buy such delicacies on hand.

This is Tokuzen Ltd. in Takayanagi Town, Kashiwazaki City, Niigata Prefecture. Tokuzen is a delicatessen run by local mothers on the Okano Street shopping arcade, a street with shutter art that you pass on the way to Takayanagi Jyonnobi-mura. The warmth of the delicatessen is said to be well received by the people of the Takayanagi area. We visited Tokuzen Ltd. to find out the secret behind this warmth.

A group of mothers in the kitchen of their home, the Takayanagi area

Tokuzen Ltd. was established 15 years ago in 2017. It was set up by local mothers in the Takayanagi area, where the population is ageing, to 'support the elderly in making meals'. Sachie Otsuka, the representative of the company, says: "Even before we set up the company, I felt a sense of crisis in the lives of the elderly in Takayanagi, where the town was one step older than the surrounding areas. Even I, who was in my fifties at the time, was having a hard time making the three meals a day. I thought that the elderly might have an even harder time, so I started the project with my friends around me".

Currently, a staff of eight sells lunchboxes and handmade prepared foods, such as stewed royal ferns, croquettes and hijiki go-mein (hijiki mushrooms), in shops and at direct sales outlets in the city. They also deliver free of charge to your home if you order. The frequency varies, with some customers delivering lunches every day and others using the service a few days a week. There are also other requests for hors d'oeuvres at community gatherings and events.

They receive various requests from customers, such as "I'm going to gateball in the morning, so I want my lunch at 7am" or "I don't like carrots, so I want a lunch with contents that are easy to eat". Otsuka and his staff say they try to respond to these requests as much as possible. Their patient response gives the impression of a mother standing in the kitchen of a large family in the community.

Tokuzen food is also served at social events. They soothe the hearts of the participants and further enliven the topic of conversation.

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The important thing is to make everyday food

The people who work here are neighbourhood mothers with families ranging from those raising children to those over 70 years old. 'There are no cooks here. We are all amateurs. But we are professionals in making daily meals". Making daily meals that are safe and tasty is also a place where each staff member can demonstrate the skills they have developed as mothers.

But, Otsuka continues. 'I also tell my staff that their first priority is their families. Children's school events and health problems come first. If they neglect their families, they won't be able to do a good job. She is a professional meal provider, but she also remembers the feeling of a mother. This may be one of the hidden flavours that work for Tokuzen's delicacies.

On this day, we are about to go on a door-to-door sales trip to a senior citizens' home, where we will have more than 10 different delicatessen products on display.

The only day off for daily food shops is the three days of the New Year!

At the time of its establishment, the restaurant operated on weekends and holidays. However, "When you think about it, meals are an everyday thing. Of course, everyone eats on weekends too," says Otsuka. We have changed our working system to a shift system and are now working to become the kitchen of the community.

If you drop a coin, they will say, "Oh, no! You must really want to come to me".

Mothers will continue to feed the hungry and satisfy the mind

I want to be a place where people say, 'If you go to Tokuzen, you can get by'. We want to be a place where people can say that," says Otsuka about the future of Tokuzen. Tokuzen is a hangout for local people, where you can go when you are hungry or when you want to talk to someone. And she adds, "Tokuzen's taste is a taste of the region, so I hope we can bring the taste of my hometown to people who have left Takayanagi and are living outside of the prefecture.

Tokuzen has tables where coffee is available.

The stewed royal ferns were served to us with the words, "Now it's cooked, go and eat it."

These days, it is not uncommon for people to be so busy that they suddenly feel the fatigue of life.

In such cases, you might want to reward yourself by going for a drive. The destination is, of course, Tokuzen in the Takayanagi area of Kashiwazaki. The delicacies filled with mothers' thoughts will fill your stomach and recharge your energy more than you can imagine.

You will be welcomed by mothers, just like your own mothers at home.

Shop information

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• Address: 1806 Okano-cho, Takayanagi-cho, Kashiwazaki, Niigata 945-1502
• tel: 0257-41-2080